It was the first time I had been to the races at Cheltenham for some time. Well, actually since before the new Princess Royal Stand was opened in 2015! People who don’t go to the races tend to think it is all about gambling but the reality is much more nuanced and many spectators don’t even place a bet. That horses are a major part of a race day is, curiously, sometimes forgotten in racecourse redevelopment (the Millenium Stand at Newmarket comes to mind). But Cheltenham has put horses at the centre of the experience. The paddock, where the horses parade before the race and the winners come to stand and be lauded, is visible from a multitude of viewing points and spectators on the rails can almost reach out and touch the horses. The pre-parade ring, where the horses are saddled before the race is easily accessible for a knowledgeable crowd while the post-race enclosure, under trees and with plentiful supply of water to drink and wash-off, is just the other side of the walkway from the parade ring. Racegoers can see the defeated runners and observe the trainers and jockeys and connections debrief in a huddle of thwarted dreams. In the interest of transparency, even the post-race dope testing is done in public, in yet another, secured, area. And then, food and drink is everywhere: from kiosks to full service restaurants, waiter service to queues in the chill fresh air. Yes, betting is certainly available but is surprisingly discrete, with facilities scattered throughout the stands and grounds. The iconic bookies, standing on their boxes and shouting odds in front of their boards, are still there, set amongst the crowds in front of the grandstands and on the rails. And to round out the experience, there is live music, shopping, entertainment for children, a racing hall of fame… Come racing, it is so much more than betting.